Foamy and the beam

We are starting to make some real progress on the beams now.  Weather is cooperating enough so I can mix epoxy.  Here you see several hours of work gluing the high-density inserts into the beam sides.  It was a lot of inserts (over 60) and each had to be neatly prepped, glued and adjusted to be flush.  In the foreground you see my 2-part MAS epoxy and hardener in 4-gallon containers.  This plus 4-gallons more epoxy I have in storage should be more than enough for the beams.  The 4-gallon jugs come with both valves, as shown, and hand pumps.  Although more $ per gallon, I do like them for convenience.

With the foam parts all ready for assembly, including sanding and vacuuming for good adhesion, I prepped the mold.  I had already drilled holes for screws to hold the foam parts in place from underneath, which allows me to apply the carbon fiber on top (actually on the inside).  Here you can see the mold covered in clear packaging tape to (hopefully) prevent the epoxy from sticking to the mold.  In the worst case, I have to disassemble the mold to pop the beam out, which is doable thanks to all screws being accessible.  But best case is I remove the screws holding the foam in place and the beam comes out with a little persuasion. In any case, I have the first two pieces of foam in place at either end.  Now it is a race to assemble the other pieces of foam before the epoxy kicks.

And here is the mold with all of the foam parts assembled for the forward port side beam.  I ran out of screws so I had to use every spring clamp I have to hold the aft side in place.  To assemble the foam, I wetted each edge to be bonded with straight epoxy mix, no fillers. Then I applied a bead of slightly thin putty along one edge.  The piece was pressed in place carefully to minimize epoxy squeezing out on the mold side.  Finally I installed screws from outside (underneath and on sides) to hold the piece securely while the epoxy sets.  I did have to install a couple screws on the top side to hold the curved piece in place, so I will fill those holes lightly before applying carbon fiber and epoxy.  I also lost the race with the epoxy and had to toss half of a small batch when it got too thick to use.  But I am mixing smaller batches, either 2, 4, or 6 oz at a time, so less is wasted.  I think I need to add fillets along all edges next, but I have to check the plans to make sure.  That will be the job for tomorrow.

Here is a close up view of the recessed pocket for one of the support struts.  We are looking at the inside of the beam so this recess is inside.  The bolt and nut are holding the solid GRP bolt plates in place with some precision so the folding structure all fits and aligns properly in final assembly.  Lots of little pieces are put together to construct this recess.  Hopefully the epoxy breaks lose of the tape as planned, otherwise I may have a bad day on the way.  Once I add fillets, and the epoxy cures, I will do some final sanding to round over the edges and corners.  This will help the fabric drape the form more easily, making for a stronger beam, and the beams need to be very strong.

Back in a sticky spot, finally

 All right, the icicles have finally melted, and I am done cutting expensive foam board into little pieces.  We are back to work and mixing epoxy.  The first items glued together were the solid glass reinforced plastic (grp) side plates that will support the struts that link the main hull to the beams.  As shown in the photo, the thickening rings were glued to the side plates.  Both parts were fabricated a long time ago when I was making the parts for the central mounting modules.  Each piece is approximately 3/16" think solid glass and epoxy.  To ensure the hole in the rings and plates were properly aligned, I ran a bolt through them while the epoxy cured.  The biggest risk in this step was the parts becoming permanently glued to the bolt.  To help avoid this, I wrapped the bolt with a layer of clear packing tape, which the epoxy doesn't stick to very well.  Then I simply cleaned up any excess epoxy before threading the parts on the bolt.  Since these are high stress components, the epoxy mix included some cabosil to thicken and toughen the glue.  I still need to round over one side of the long edge on each piece, as well as a little general clean up sanding, then these parts are ready to go into the beam mold.

I used the left over glue from the reinforced side plates to start bonding the high density inserts into the various pieces of foam that will make the beams.  There are a total of 16 inserts in the pieces shown here.  Although I still had glue left over at this point, it started to kick and got too thick to use.  I only made about 100 mL, combined with about an equal amount of cabosil.  So it doesn't take much epoxy to do this job.  I covered the table with a sheet of vacuum bagging material, which the epoxy doesn't stick to very well.  Then I just pressed the inserts into their openings, squeegeed off most of the excess epoxy, and evened it up on the table.  Once cured, the parts popped off the table with minimal persuasion.  Before assembling these parts into the beam mold, I will sand both sides clean.  Easier and quicker to do the sanding now than when assembled into a complex form with lots of inside corners.

These parts are the foam pieces for the beam sides, including all 72 high density inserts.  I spent the past couple weekends custom fitting each of the inserts so I could glue them in place efficiently.  Each piece is labelled so if I drop the stack I can figure out which insert goes where.  Next good weather day, i.e. reasonable temperature and moderate humidity, I will permanently bond the inserts in their respective cut outs.  Then a little sanding and ready for installation in the beam mold.  I could have installed all of the inserts when assembling the parts in the beam mold, but I figured it would be easier and less stressful to separate the tasks.

I still need to do a little prep on the mold before starting assembly of the foam.  Some of these tasks include drilling holes for screws to hold these parts in place until they are bonded together, and marking and taping the seam locations to prevent gluing the parts to the mold.  Hopefully old man winter has gone to bed, and the spring showers cooperate so we can get on with the fun.

Slicing and dicing

We received all of our supplies to proceed with the beam construction, including gallons of MAS epoxy with slow hardener and several sheets of CoreCell foam.  The weather has been particularly cold and damp, so I am not in a rush to start work with the epoxy.  When temperatures rise enough for my 1500W space heater to keep up in the garage, I try to make progress by pre-cutting the foam as needed for the beams.  Here you see all of the high-density foam inserts that are required for the four beams.  This is CoreCell 1200 (~12 lbs/cf).  It is much harder than the CoreCell 500 or 550 I use for the majority of the structure.  As a result, cutting takes a bit more time and effort.  I cut all of my foam with a knife rather than a saw to minimize waste.  This stuff is just too expensive to turn it into dust.  In any case, it took me about 4 hours to cut all of this, including time to figure out all of the dimensional details.  I think I have less than a few percent waste, so that is good on the budget.

Here you can see the foam starting to be fitted into the beam mold.  The foam along the bottom of the mold is just being dry fit for size.  Most of the foam seen here is standard density foam, except at the two ends.  Once all of the foam parts are cut, including cutouts for he high-density inserts, I will start epoxying them together and then the real build begins.  The wedge in the middle of the mold (upper left in photo) will form a recess in the beam for part of the beam folding mechanism.  I finished cutting the foam bits that encase the recess last Monday during a brief warm spell (I think it hit 30 F!).  This weekend I plan to finish cutting the foam for the sides.  I will also try to cut the foam for the top of the beam which is formed on the other mold to the right in the photo.  Hopefully Mother Nature will cooperate and give me some warmer weather so I can start mixing epoxy soon.

Building beam molds

 Happy 2014!  New year with new progress on the F-82R.  Here is a view of my new boat fabrication factory.  There is just enough room to lay out a 4x8 sheet of particle board, if I suck in my gut!  Nonetheless, I was able to assemble the three molds and stands needed to build the beams.    The one that looks like a skateboard ramp on the right is for the beam tops.  The box on the table is a support stand for the beams during fabrication.  The main beam mold is on the floor in the middle of the picture.  I also had to get some new tools since most of my power tools are also back home.

Here is a picture of the main mold for the beams.  The main side panels had to be recut since the originals are still at the "main factory."  The spacers and other bits were shipped (I am sure it would have been more economical to recut everything).  In any case, it all went together very nicely.  Now I just need my supplies to arrive from Noah's and I will be back to boat building.

I'm back!!!

Howdy fellow Farrier fanatics.  Well I just couldn't stand to sit around wasting time that could be used working on my F-82R.  So I went back to the high mountains of northern New Mexico, packed up a bunch of parts and supplies, and shipped the stuff back to New York (after taking a second mortgage out on our house to pay for the shipping costs!)  Turns out the garage door in our new home is small enough that my wife isn't comfortable driving her car in, so I have a mostly empty one-stall garage just begging for a small boat-building shop.  Here you can see how happy this makes me.

I am going to build several of the smaller components for my F-82R, starting with the beams.  Depending on time, I hope to build the four beams, rudder support, rudder blade, daggerboard, and maybe the daggerboard box.  Although I already cut the parts for the beam molds, the pieces were too large to ship (at least on my salary), so I am recutting them here.  Hopefully I will have all three molds/frames for the beams assembled in a couple days.  Then I am just waiting for a new supply of Core Cell, fabric, and epoxy to arrive in the next couple weeks.

More to come soon, so keep checking in … it's great to be back!

Long awaited update

Sorry for the long wait since my last update. We continued to work on the port side of the main hull through March and it is ready to be removed from the hull form.  However, we also had a new opportunity pop up and decided to take advantage of it.  This opportunity now has us on the east coast for a few years while our project remains in the New Mexico mountains.  Of course we also sold our monohull along the way and are now close to the ocean and have no way to sail!

Settee top installed, and other updates

 Well, it has been awhile since my last update, but progress has been steady (and slow). I finished installing and taping the forward bunk and the cockpit floor.  I spent quite a lot of time preparing the settee top for installation.  The top has two access panels in it for storage with rims made out of marine ply.  Seemed like an easy and quick job, but it took me a couple weeks to cut the ply rims, glass them, and laminate them onto the settee top.  In any case, the top and openings look very neat and should finish well (if we ever get to that stage!)  I also cut the reinforcement for the side of the companionway out of white oak and glued it to the bulkhead.  In the photo looking aft, you can see both the settee top with access ports and the companionway with reinforcement.

Here is a view of the underside of the settee top after it was installed in the port hull half.  The panel has been glued in place and a fillet run along all seams.  I also went back and added partial fillets along some other seams on adjoining panels.  I left the top six inches of panels yet to be joined to panels in the starboard half lose for final tweaking once the hull halves are joined.  Next I will tape the filleted seams and apply peel-ply for a clean finish.  I am very happy with the taping when I use peel-ply.  Although the peel-ply is sometimes a headache to apply, it gives such a nice finish that it is definitely the way to go.  But you also have to remember to peel it off before installing additional elements.  I came close to glueing panels on top of peel-ply a couple times today.

Here is the underside of the settee top for the starboard hull half.  I prepped both panels so it won't take as long to assemble the starboard half.  The marine ply rims are taped to the panels on the underside.  Since we will be sitting on, crawling over, and generally abusing the settee top, I figured it was worth applying a little extra reinforcing.  For a clean finish, the rims were laminated on the panels on the vacuum table.  The peel-ply is still on the panel shown.

Once the settee top is taped in place, I will install the settee front, and then we just have the cockpit seat to install.  So hopefully this stage of construction is close to finished, but no guarantees!