After delays due to the "day job" last weekend, I finally got started building the frame for the main hull. The suggested procedure involves transferring the frame cutout patterns from the full size plans to 3/4" particle board with carbon paper. However, our experience with the floats was that it was difficult to accurately align the full size plans on the board. So we have been transferring the plans to card stock (poster board) and then cutting out patterns that we can trace on to the particle board. This allows us to very carefully align both the top edge and the vertical alignment marks. In this case, rather than making 14 separate patterns, one for each frame, I transferred all of the patterns to one (large) piece of card stock. Then I cut each pattern as I needed it, followed by reassembly with tape into a single set of patterns. I will once again provide my highest recommendation for rotary cutters. My rotary cutter was able to cut the stock in one pass, while easily maintaining good accuracy. After 14 frames, you can see what is left of the patterns. It actually worked quite well, and just required a little extra effort to carefully reassemble the patterns to assure no distortions are introduced. I also transferred various other reference points (waterline, floors, etc.) from the plans to the patterns to the particle board. I actually think it would be quite valuable for the plans to come with a set of full size patterns on card stock, or at least available as a premium add-on.
It took about six hours to transfer all of the patterns to the sheets of wood and trim the sheets to final size. I am not sure if this is a lot of time or not, but 25 minutes per pattern seems reasonable given the need for accuracy and the number of steps involved. I also marked the forms to provide space for fairing strips, as we did for the floats, which also required some time. Here are the sheets cut to size and awaiting their turn with the jigsaw.
For fairing strips, I decided to try ripping some 3/4 ply into strips. The solid wood strips tend to warp and twist, whereas the ply should remain true. The solid wood fairing strips I purchased at the local hardware store also had some variation in thickness while the ply is very consistent and precise. The ply costs a little more, and it will take some time to cut all of the strips, but I am hoping it will make for a truer form for the hull.
I cut the first frame yesterday (actually it was frame 8) with no problems. Then I set up to cut out the next frame (frame 7) and after cutting about an inch, my nearly new Ryobi jigsaw died! We bought it to cut the float frames, and found it a reasonable tool given the low price (although the laser guide was worthless since it couldn't be properly aligned with the blade). I have generally been happy with my other Ryobi tools, and have not had any similar problems. I haven't tried opening the jigsaw up yet to see if it is a simple fix (broken wire). Looking online, I found many people had bad experiences with this saw. I decided to get a better quality saw, under the (possibly misguided) assumption that a better saw won't suddenly die after so little effort. After reading various reviews, I settled on the Bosch 1590EVSL which received highest recommendations from numerous professional and personal reviewers. Unfortunately, I couldn't find this saw anywhere locally, so on to internet commerce. I did find a very good price at Coastal Tools, hopefully they are quick shipping so we can finish cutting the frames next weekend. In the meantime, I will try to get all of the other tasks out of the way, such as cutting fairing strips, transferring patterns for bulkheads, etc.
No comments:
Post a Comment